Roofs, Roof Maintenance. The most common roof in America is asphalt shingles. The manufacture common warranties are 20, 25 and 30 years. With proper roof deck materials, appropriate flashings for penetrations ( e.g., pipes, skylights, chimneys, walls, TV dish ...), professional shingle installation and proper maintenance, the roof life should reach 85-95% before visible deterioration takes place. Depending on attic ventilation, weather conditions and roof pitch, shingle life can be longer or shorter. The typical maintenance issue with a professionally installed roof will be nail holes, or loose and defective shingles.   

Drainage, Gutters.  Always keep gutters clean, secured to fascia boards and draining properly to prevent wet basements and crawlspaces. Make sure downspouts are pouring 3-6 feet away from the foundation if possible. Try to create landscapes and grading that will cause water to flow away from the foundation. Proper drainage also prevents foundation settling and settling cracks in foundation and brick veneer. 

Driveways, Walkways, Concrete. It would seem that a concrete driveway or walkway is a very durable exterior surface. It is, as long as it is installed and maintained properly. A driveway is as good as its installation. If it is resting on unstable soil, settling may occur from soil erosion or continued soil compaction. Continued water saturation beneath the slab moves the soil leaving no support. Without support cracking will take place. Soil can't be replaced but water saturation can be reduced or diverted. Damaged concrete sections can be cut out and replaced. In the winter when ice or sleet is on concrete the first thought is to sprinkle down salt or a ice melt. Be very careful with any ice melt that has salt. Salt can cause irreversible damage to the concrete surface. 

Exterior Painting, Wood Siding. All wood siding must be professionally painted every 10-15 years. Prior to painting, surfaces should be clean and any exposed wood primed. Damaged siding should be repaired or replaced prior to painting. Joints, seams and nail holes should be professionally caulked before any priming or painting. A thorough scraping of the face and lower lap-edge of the siding will remove any loose paint flakes and create a smooth surface that will allow the new paint to bond to all surfaces. If the home was built before 1978 a certified lead base paint contractor must be hired. He or she has to be lead base paint certified or work would be in violation of EPA and the local building codes.

Lead Base Paint. Homes may be unsafe if lead base paint surfaces are not properly maintained. Damaged wood, chipping paint, paint flaking and peeling paint are very unsafe, and for the young especially. Any repairs of walls or trim requires strict disposal procedures. All workers repairing, renovating, remodeling or replacing anything on a home built before 1978 must comply with all requirements including testing before work begins. Proper clothing, protection and debris disposal is mandatory for workers. Professional barriers, protection, cleaning techniques and ventilation is a must for the occupants and the  wokers. State and federal mandates require people who work on homes with lead painted surfaces to record and log all activity and clean-up. The amount of building material affected or size of a project will dictate what the cost and requirements for safety are.   

Painting, Exterior Window and Door Trim, Brick Molding. Brick molding around windows and doors must be treated with special attention. Rain can cause decay to this material faster than the other exterior finishes. In many cases painters do not thoroughly caulk all joints and seams of moldings. If not properly sealed and finished, joints and seams will allow moisture to wick into wood components where they are exposed. It has been noted where door molding contact thresholds and window moldings contact window seals water damage occurs quickly. Making sure joints are caulked and surfaces thoroughly painted creates a moisture barrier.

Dripping, Leaking, Faucets. Dripping faucets can cause several problems. Most people associate a dripping faucet with a high water bill. However, a dripping faucet on the hot water side can cause water heaters to cycle-on more than normal causing higher energy consumption. Drips can cause stains in tub and sink finishes if faucets are left unrepaired. The humidity is higher in the area of a home where water is flowing or dripping constantly. A faucet leaking water at the handle or body can cause water to penetrate the cabinet or wall where it is mounted. A septic tank can have its drain field saturated by a leaking faucet if not repaired. Most older faucets are all brass and are life time. All parts that move can be replaced in older faucets. Mold spores and mold growth is higher in high humidity areas. Dripping is a simple problem and is simple to repair. In almost all cases, a faucet that drips or leaks can be repaired rather than replaced.       

Leaking, Drains. A leaking waste drain is a health hazard inside and outside a residential building. It is a hazard for the occupants and non-occupants of that property. Main waste drains leaking in crawlspaces or basements can promote mold growth and fungus on organic materials. Drain traps below sinks are the most common area for leaks. People use this area for storage and can loosen a connection that is simply hand tighten. Older sink drains are metal and deteriorate over time. More recent installations are plastic (pvc, cpvc, polybutylene ...) and resist corrosion. In many cases, defective drain connections (e.g., pieces too short, missing components, improper compoment assembly, ...) can cause leaks below sinks. Excessive water on the floor of a sink cabinet will cause rot or decay to the cabinet and floor of the building supporting the cabinet. 

Doors. Original doors were almost always built of solid wood lumber and panels. In the 50s and 60s hollow core entry doors were introduced. Both solid and hollow core doors are not energy efficient. They have a low R-Value. Steel clad, foam core entry doors are energy rated and durable. They have a energy rating set by the industry. They can withstand varied weather conditions other door materials cannot. Rain, sun and humidity can cause UV damage, swelling and decay in wood doors. Doors are wall penetrations where energy loss is high. Fiberglass doors are heavy on their frame and must be properly fastened to the structure.  

Door Locks. Sometimes entry door locks will not strike or have a defective strike. Building movement can cause a door lock not to engage or strike. A door with a deadbolt that is hard to lock usually has a bolt that is not in line with the strike plate. This could simply be an off-set strike plate and the lock can't engage. In most cases a slight adjustment or repositioning of the strike plate should fix it.  

Floors. The word floor is a general term when describing an element of a home. There is floor covering, floor frame, floor joist, subfloor, floor underlayment and dirt floors to mention a few terms. Four common conditions are floor settling, weak floors, floors squeaking and floors popping. Floor settling can be caused by improper or defective building construction, building movement and soil movement, termite infestation, ... . Weak floors can be caused by improper lumber, improper bracing, floor spans too long, too much live load, ... . Pops and squeaks in floors are caused by improper nails, staples or fastening systems. Squeaks are usually nails that pass through the subfloor and joist that are moving when walked over. Squeaking in several areas may indicate floor movement or floor settling. In many cases, improper nailing and or nails can cause popping and squeaking.        

Windows.  Windows are built or made from several types of materials. The traditional window was made of wood frames and sashes with only the jamb, metal strip, and stop molding as a barrier from air infiltration. They are very drafty. In masonry or block buildings, steel window units were used and had no weather stripping also. Later, aluminum windows were introduced. Most aluminum windows crank out like louvers or have sashes. In almost all metal windows, the mechanical components become worn or defective, causing them not to fully close or seal. This makes metal windows very drafty in winter wind. Wood windows are still made. However, they are double pane glass and have weather stripped jambs and sashes. Vinyl or PVC windows are becomming a dominant product in the residential industry. They are maintenance free and have a high energy rating.   

Double Pane Glass. Double pane windows and door glass are replacing single pane units as we all know. They also replaced the need for storm windows. They are saving energy and helping lower the cost we pay for fuel. In the early years double pane windows had metal uninsulated frames that would sweat. Many glass panels began to cloud or have moisture between glass sections after 5-8 years. The frames and glass panel design have been improved. Replacing a double pane glass is almost the same as replacing single pane window glass just different materials.

Decks, Wood. Wood decks are a plus when added to a home. However, how they are built and installed plays a big role in their safety and usable life. Also, proper maintenance can insure long life. Proper foundations and  attachment to the building framing assures a safe deck. Securing the deck to the house with bolts spaced according to code locks the deck floor to the house floor. All perimeter support posts should rest on a concrete pad raised above soil level or posts should be anchord by steel and raised above the concrete base. Floor joists should be properly connected to ledgers, beams and girders. Support posts should be fastened to the deck floor system acording to code. Deck rails and deck stair rails should be stable and support weight acording to building code. Spacing of rail guards should be child proof if deck is higher than the maximum from grade. Wood decks do not have to be painted. They only need a professional pressure washing every 3-5 years to maintain a fresh appearance.

Foundations, Settling. Settling in foundations can be from several causes. The most common indication of settling is cracks in walls, floors, ceilings and veneers. Some building settling is expected after construction but normally no structure problems will occur from this type of settling. However, improper soil compaction, poor soil (e.g. too much sand, clay or top soil) can cause settling to be uneven and differential. Continuous water saturation near foundations will cause settling if not corrected. Missing gutters, improper gutters, overflowing gutters and downspouts pouring near foundations will cause settling at a foundation or wall.

Masonry Structures. Porches, stoops, chimneys and walls made of masonry are very heavy masses. They must have substantial foundations and good footings to support the weight. In many cases, concrete stoops and porches settle or rotate away from the building because of improper attachment to the building served, poor soil conditions or water saturation at or near the foundation of these structures. Chimneys may lean if the foundation is defective or the soil is not compacted. Clay soils can expand and contract in various seasons or under certain conditions. Know the soil characteristics in the area.   

 More subjects will be added soon. If you have questions on any of these subjects or a home subject please let me know.

Georgia Home Inspector