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 Many things can cause damage to a building and it's components. But, there are two that can cause severe damage in a short amount of time if not checked. Those two things are water and termites.

Lets start with termites. Whenever I get a call at Paris Pressley Real Estate Inspector to come out and inspect or estimate a home, building or property for termite damage, the first things that come to mind is that non-treated wood is comming in contact with the ground, improper or defective coatings and finishes are on exterior wood,  no termite shield was used at the foundation and wood seal plates, water is getting into the wood components of the structure, improper stucco applications were used, termite treatment is past due or moisture is allowing termites to travel above the soil by way of tunnels and began feasting on the building. (Click on photos to enlarge)

                   Atlanta Georgia and Metro 404-755-9556          West Georgia  770-252-6700           Email: info@ppinspect.com                       

Home, building Inspections in College Park, Stone Mountain, Smyrna, Peachtree City, Brookhaven, Stockbridge, Midtown, Roswell

These are some of the best protection measures I've seen in 35 years                                                        (1).There should always be a complete seperation between wood and masonry using a termite shield and or treated lumber. Even walls and ceilings should have seperation from masonry (2). Any wood materials (floor joist, seals, beams, girders and supports) should be 24 inches from the soil in the crawlspace (3). Any type of stucco has specific concerns: (a) window and door openings allow water in at the crack between the wood and stucco and water intrusion combined with stucco in contact with soil will allow termites to travel up into the home, caulk all cracks at windows and doors, maintain a water tight seal (b) synthetic stucco and scratch coat stucco should not contact soil, it should be 6 inches from the soil also. If your stucco is contacting soil on hard surfaces there are ways to correct the problem. (4). Try to keep the soil moisture content around and under the home below normal. I don't promote chemical termite treatments because of GREEN BUILDING but this is a choice.  

 Water, is the other  destroyer of homes and buildings. Whenever a customer calls my remodeling company Atlanta House Surgeons to repair and replace wood damage caused by water, the four common water problems are roof leaks, plumbing leaks, water intrusion at penetrations like doors or windows and gutter malfunction. The cost to make repairs to these components are low compared to the structual damage and cost of professionals to make repairs. Also, clogged, improper or damaged gutters have been identified as a main cause of settling foundations, cracking in walls and brick veneer.


All about Exterior Stucco

In a good apple you sometimes find a worm – Proverb. Why is there suddenly a rash of defective building products? Do manufacturers "just not build 'em like they used to," sacrificing quality for profits? Are lawyers dreaming up building product claims to fatten their purses with class action lawsuits? Are homebuyers more aware or just more picky?

While these questions can be endlessly debated, the claims over defective building products keep rolling in, with synthetic stucco being the latest in a series. Following Mark Twain's advice to "get the facts first, you can distort them later," this article will try to get to the bottom of the synthetic stucco mess and advise Realtors® on how to handle problems.

What is a Synthetic Stucco System?

Over the past several years or so, concerns have been raised about Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems ("EIFS"), commonly referred to as "synthetic stucco." Traditional stucco, used for centuries in Europe and in the United States without a problem, is a cement-like substance. Traditional stucco consists of 3/8" to 1/2" of cement base troweled onto a metal lath which is fixed onto the exterior wall. An exterior finish coat is applied to the cement. EIFS, the synthetic stucco, is a multi-layered exterior wall system. The layers of EIFS typically consist of: (1) an insulation board made of polystyrene or polyisocyanurate foam fastened to the exterior wall surface with an adhesive and/or mechanically; (2) a water-resistant base coat applied over the insulation and then reinforced with fiberglass mesh; and (3) a hard and durable top coat.

The final product is attractive and strikingly similar in appearance to traditional stucco. In fact someone unfamiliar with synthetic stucco may not even know the difference.

The Difference Between EIFS (Synthetic Stucco) and Real Stucco

One way to tell the difference between synthetic stucco and stucco is to simply push on the wall. If it gives a little or appear to be flexable, it is likely EIFS. Real stucco with its layer of thick cement is usually rigid or is a hard surface. A second way is to find a spot where the stucco has been penetrated by a light fixture, vent, or some other exterior attachment. If a wire mesh (like chicken wire) is visible, it is probably stucco. If white foam board or fiberglass mesh is showing, it is probably EIFS. However, just because foam board or fiberglass is NOT showing does NOT mean the house is traditional stucco. If the EEFS was applied in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications, the penetrations may be sealed with the top coat and therefore no backing may be visible. EIFS, developed in Europe in the 1950's during the rebuilding of post-World War n Europe, was placed over masonry, damaged brick, and stone. When EIFS was introduced in the United States about 30 years ago, the system was marketed for commercial buildings. EIFS quickly became a popular and desirable building material in the residential market for a number of reasons: *EIFS is energy efficient. Placed on the outside of the building structure, EIFS adds a layer of insulation supplementing the interior insulation in the building. The result is a more energy efficient home. EIFS became popular in the residential housing market during the 1970's energy crisis because of its superior insulation value. *EIFS is flexible, attractive, and affordable. EIFS can be made in a variety of colors and textures and can be made into virtually any shape or design. Cornices, arches, columns, keystones, cornerstones, and other decorative accents which were previously out of the reach of most home buyers can be added to a home without much additional cost. *EIFS is relatively low maintenance. Generally, EIFS is resistant to fading, chalking, or yellowing, so painting is not required. Furthermore, the color is throughout the top coat so even if the surface is scratched, the same color appears. EIFS is also more resistant to mold and mildew than some other types of siding.

So What's the Concern or Issue about (Synthetic Stucco) EIFS?

EIFS first drew the national spotlight when a significant number of upscale homes with EIFS in New Hanover County,North Carolina, were found to have moisture damage. The problem has since surfaced elsewhere, including Georgia. The problem with EIFS occurs if water gets behind it. As with any exterior siding, if moisture gets behind the siding and cannot get out, the water can cause damage to the wood structure. One of EIFS's strengths, its energy efficiency, is also its Achilles' heel. Brick and other siding materials are porous enough to allow excess moisture to escape. EIFS is less porous than these other sidings, so once water or moisture gets into the systems, the water is slow to get out. The water soaks into the wood framing, causing the wood to rot. If water intrusion and moisture retention go undetected, the damage to the wood structure can cost homeowners thousands of dollars to repair. EIFS installed over masonry such as brick or stone does not have the same problem. A problem related to the moisture retention is termite infestation and damage. Termite treatments are based on the termites' need for water. Ordinarily, when termites invade property, they make tunnels to return to the soil in their quest for water. The standard treatment for termites creates a chemical barrier between the soil and the wood structure of the home. However, when water is retained in the wall of the home, the termites never have to return to the soil. They have everything they need to live, water and wood, right in the wall. The usual chemical barrier has no effect. Furthermore, EIFS typically extends down to the surface of the soil. That point of contact between the soil and the stucco is conducive to termite activity in the home. The termites tunnel through the foam boarding in the EIFS, avoiding the chemical barrier, and make their way into the wood structure of the home. Ordinarily, a termite inspector detects termite activity by looking for telltale clay tunnels on the foundation of a home. With EIFS, the tunnels can be hidden from view inside the EIFS. The termites can therefore do their damage completely undetected.

We Don't See Any Problems ...

The moisture retention and termite problems sometimes associated with EIFS are not easily detected by a visual inspection. The exterior appearance of the EIFS does not necessarily show any signs of damage. Water intrusion in a home clad with EIFS is usually found where the exterior wall has been penetrated. To locate potential sources of water intrusion, examine windows, doors, roofs, deck-to-house attachments, faucet spigots, electrical outlets, and anywhere else a penetration to the exterior wall is found. Any holes in the stucco siding should be sealed. Any unsealed holes may allow water to get inside the system, so flashing and sealant are required. Water intrusion can be confirmed by a professional home inspector. Typically, the inspector will locate a dry spot on the house, usually under the eaves or gables. This dry location is used to calibrate a wet wall detector. Once the instrument is calibrated on the home, the walls are scanned to locate areas of elevated moisture without penetrating the wall. The suspicious areas are targeted for a moisture meter reading. The moisture meter actually penetrates the stucco to the wood structure. A moisture meter reading of twelve to twenty percent (12-20 %) is indicative of some water intrusion. A moisture meter reading of twenty five percent (25 %) can mean decay of the wood structure.

Addressing the Problem

Moisture Damage
If an inspection reveals water damage, repairs must be made to avoid further damage. Unfortunately, anyone who has had a roof leak knows how difficult it can be to trace the source of a water leak. The water may enter at one point but follow the joists or other paths to pool at another location. Often the offending entry point for EIFS is a window, door, or deck that was not properly flashed or sealed. However, even an unsealed faucet can create a problem. Lower moisture meter readings may require only repairing or replacing damaged or missing flashing or cracked or deteriorated sealants. Ill-fitting windows or doors may need special attention. Once the source of water entry is fixed, the wood may dry out over time. Subsequent moisture meter readings can confirm whether the remedy worked. Higher moisture readings indicate more serious structural damage. Depending on the extent of damage, the wood structure may also need to be replaced and repaired. This repair requires removal of the EIFS. A homeowner should keep records of any and all inspections and repairs related to EIFS. Remember that a picture is worth a thousand words. Photographs of (1) the damaged area (with the siding removed), (2) the area after repair (with the siding still removed), and (3) the finished repair might be helpful.


Termites
Some pest control companies have already notified customers that the termite bond will be more expensive or may be unavailable if there is EIFS to ground contact on the home. The companies are refusing to bond homes with EIFS to ground contact because the inspectors cannot detect whether termites are entering the home. Additionally, the traditional barrier treatment will not be effective where the foam board is in contact with the soil. Recently, the Georgia building code was changed to require that synthetic stucco siding not extend below ground level. Current code requires that the foam be at least 6 to 8 inches above the soil. (As an aside, any home which has foam insulation and contact with the ground provides an access point for termites.)


There is enough blame to go around . . . and around

Generally, a homeowner's policy will not provide coverage for water damage occurring over a period of time. Thus, the repair of the damage falls on the shoulders of the homeowners, who are looking for someone to blame, and hopefully, someone to pay for the repairs. Unfortunately, blame for the problems is almost as hard to pinpoint as the source of the water leak. The builders and manufacturers of EIFS point the finger at each other. Builders claim that the product is not appropriate for residential use. Others claim the manufacturers knew the product was not being used according to specifications but failed to correct the use. Pointing to statistics that say that over a quarter million homes with EIFS exist, manufacturers say the water intrusion is caused by improper application, usually by untrained builders. Both will say that homeowners must be responsible and perform maintenance to avoid future problems. Builders and manufacturers say that media attention has exaggerated the extent of the problem. In the Atlanta area, synthetic stucco has been the focus of "special reports" in both the newspaper and television. Homeowners have turned to litigation, and the judicial system may eventually resolve the dispute. Individual lawsuits and class action suits on behalf of a group of homeowners with EIFS are pending in several states, including Georgia. For now, the blame has not come to rest, so the responsibility for the repairs rests with the homeowner.

The Duty of Brokers

The Brokerage Relationshipsin Real Estate Transactions Act ("BRRETA") clearly places a duty on a broker to disclose "... all material adverse facts pertaining to the physical condition of the property." BRRETA does not clearly identify what is a "material adverse fact." A leaking roof is easily determined as a material adverse fact which should be disclosed. But what about living near a cellular telephone tower? While there is little scientific evidence that such towers create any health risk, some cautious buyers may decide not to live near such towers, likening them to high voltage power lines. When such decisions are based more on fear than on fact, do the conditions rise to the level of being material adverse facts? While there is no case law yet on this issue, the best way for a REALTOR(r) to avoid liability is to err on the side of disclosure in situations like cellular towers, power lines, or synthetic stucco where there is the perception of a problem. In the meantime, the lawyers and scientific community debate whether the condition
truly rises to the level of a defect.

What does the GAR form provide?

GAR recommends disclosing whether a home has synthetic stucco. The GAR Purchase and Sale Agreement incorporates the seller's disclosure statement, which specifically asks the seller to disclose whether the home has synthetic stucco. If the broker is using the GAR forms, disclosure requirements are met.

                                             Georgia Association of Realtors



Some simple rules should eliminate these two problems:
 .siding and stuccos should be at least 6-8" above ground as-well-as other wood products on a  building 
 .all gutter downspouts should extend 3ft. out from the foundation of the house

 .use mulches that don't decay quickly around the property 
 .use mulches that don't hold moisture but retain it in the soil below
 .soil next to the home should be 6 inches higher than landscape to maintain runoff
 .open foundation vents to evaporate moisture, install vapor barrier in crawlspace
 .keep gutters clean, nailed to the house and level, watch basement or crawlspace for dampness 
 .make sure no plumbing, air conditioner, washing machine or hot water tank is leaking or creating moisture 
 .watch sheetrock or walls and ceilings for stains, new and old roofs can spring leaks, caulk or seal all openings at trim
 


It is always less expensive to repair that roof leak, missing or defective flashing or plumbing leak than to pay hundreds or  thousands to make repairs caused by these components.

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Depending on the materials and design, a home, structure or building can last a hundred years. There are buildings and structures from the past and built today that are designed to last 1000 years. You can see this in many existing structures and buildings. Sometimes you can find very old buildings at the center of an original downtown area or city limits. Plantations and farmland are also locations that have very old buildings such as below.

 

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Many types of buildings and structures become historical sites because they were built professionally by craftsman, maintained correctly over the years and stood the test of time. These buildings have good foundations on stable and well drained soils, exterior coverings that protect all windows and doors, properly flashed penertrations thorugh walls, floors and roofs, and quality framing elements.

 

 

 

Whether the home is a large estate, townhouse, single family cape cod, contemporary or ranch style, they all have the same building requirements and principles. They can have the same defects, conditions or problems

1.SITE GRADING AND ELAVATION: Lots should be graded to drain surface water away from the structure. The soil should also slope away from the foundation walls and shall fall a minimum of 6" within the first 10 feet. The code requires all drainage to be diverted away from the yard. Surface drainage shall be diverted to a storm sewer conveyance or other point of collection.

2.FLASHINGS AND WEEP HOLES: Flashing is required above all doors, ledges, deck floors, roof-wall attachments and windows installed in brick and siding which prevent water from getting behind the brick or siding and into the wall and floor systems. Weep holes in brick walls should be above all doors, above and under windows, at floor level of porches and control joints in brick veneer to drain the water or moisture to the outside and allow airflow at the airspace between elements. Flashing and weepholes are required at all brick shelf angles over all doors and windows.

3.EXTERIOR WOOD PROTECTION: Non-treated siding and wood members must be painted or stained for protection.All exterior wood members and components have open joints and pours which may allow moisture to enter and cause decay or rot. Proper primer, caulking and several coats of paint are required to protect wood. 

4.LATERAL WALL BRACING: All exterior wall corners should have proper lateral bracing to reduce racking or swaying. All exterior corner walls shall be braced at each corner and at least every 25 ft. using a minimum 48"  width approved structural sheathing. 

5.SOIL CONDITIONS: Soil under footings and concrete slabs shall be compacted and have no top soil. All vegetation must be removed from the footing bed. Fill soil that support footings and foundations shall be designed, installed and tested in accordance with accepted engineering practices.

6. VAPOR BARRIERS: Missing moisture or vapor barriers may cause moisture or humidity problems in the basement and living spaces. A 6 mil (0.006 inch; 152 ěm) polyethylene or approved vapor retarder with joints lapped not less than 6 inches (152 mm) shall be placed between the concrete floor slab and the base course or the prepared subgrade where no base course exists.


7.FASTENERS AND SIDING: Nails or fasteners that break the siding surface when driven too deep by nail gun or manually will not fasten siding to the structure or wall underlayment  properly. Moisture and water may enter or be absorb into the material and cause deterioration or damage. Fiber cement siding, hardi plank, fiber board siding, compressed board and structual board siding have the same requirements. Manufacturers require that nails be flush to the finished side of the surface. Any nail heads that break the finished surface must be filled or caulked and a second fastener shall be installed.

8.CAULKS AND SEALING: Caulking and sealing the building envelope provides energy savings, prevents house air leaks, drafts and moisture intrusion. All exterior joints in the building envelope, that are sources of air leaks, shall be caulked, gasketed, weather-stripped or otherwise sealed in an approved manner.

9.CHIMNEY CONCERNS: A chimney can be a potential fire hazard in the walls, attic and at the roof line if improperly installed. Missing chimney caps, spark screens and improper metal pipe connections are all concerns. Defective or deteriorating mortar in masonry chimneys is also an issue. All chimneys shall extend 2’ higher than any portion of roof within 10’ and at least 3’ higher than the roof penetration. 

10.ROOF ISSUES: Roof shingles can be damaged in several ways. Foot traffic in hot weather can damage the shingle surface. Toe boards or safety boards used by roofers can be a life saver when working several stories up on a steep roof. These boards are fastend to the roof deck and frame. There are holes left in the shingles when the equipment is removed that may not seal causing a roof leak in the future. Shingles with damage or holes shall be sealed or repaired with a asphalt base sealant consistant with the same grade roof covering material.  Roof shingles shall provide a barrier against the weather to protect its supporting elements and structure beneath. 

11.ROOF-WALL FLASHING: Some flashings at vertical wall, deck and chimney connections are lengths of L-shaped crimped galvanized steel normally in 10 feet lengths. There is another flashing in 6, 8 and 10 inch widths call step flashing. Flashing prevents water from entering at wall and roof intersections. Step flashing is the prefered flashing at masonary and wall-deck connection. Flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be the step-flashing method.

12.SOIL FOOTING BED AND FROST LINES: All soil footings must be below frost lines and local code should be checked to verify local area depth requirements. Different regions have shorter or longer winter or cold seasons. Colder regions where the soil stays frozen all year have shallow footings and regions with partial winters where soils freeze and thaw are required to be deeper. Regions with clay soils and regions with sand and gravel or rock have different footing requirements also. Heaving or bulging is one result of freezing and thawing under a slab or wall. All exterior footings shall be placed at least 12 inches below the undisturbed gound surface.

13.GUARDS AND RAILS: 2x4 handrails are no longer allowed as main handrail system for grasping and guards must be spaced less than 4-1/4. wide Handrails shall have either a circular cross section with a diameter of 1 1/4" to 2", or a noncircular

14.EXTERIOR DECK FLASHINGS AT WALLS: Flashing prevents water from entering behind the deck and into the wall system. Flashings are required where decks attach to wall or floor components. Exterior balconies, decks and porches shall be flashed in accordance with Section 703.8. 

15.RAFTER PEARLINS: Purlins should be one 2x6 turned upright to the rafters which are stronger than flat double 2x4s. Purlins shall be sized no less than the size of the rafters they support.

16.ROOF FRAME BRACING: Additional post bracing systems are required to properly brace and support the purlin system. All rafter purlins must be braced every 48 inches to a load bearing wall or support. Support members are not allowed to be spliced without additional support installed. All purlins should be spliced directly above a support post. Purlins must be continuous between braces.

17.LOAD BEARING ELEMENTS: All load bearing beams must be supported with braces bearing on wall top plates and all splices must be braced. Roof framing shall be capable of supporting all loads imposed and shall transmit the resulting loads to its supporting structural elements.

18.ATTIC FLOORS AT PULLDOWN STAIRS: Incomplete or improper attic floors create hazardous travel and it is unsafe when there is missing flooring at the stairs or leading to the furnace. All attics must have an unobstructed, floored passageway 22" wide and a head room 30" high to the furnace.

19.ATTIC INSULATION CERTIFICATION CARD: This card is required to verify the attic has proper amounts of insulation in the attic floor. The insulation installer shall provide a signed and dated certification for the insulation installed, listing the type of insulation, the manufacturer and the R-value. One thickness marker is required every 300 s.f. of floor area. The thickness of roof/ceiling blown insulation shall be identified by thickness markers. Sometimes attic insulation settles over time and is not deep enough. The insulation installer certifies the minimum thickness of the insulation". 

20.FIRESTOPS OR DRAFT BLOCKS: A chase is an opening in the attic floor or any other floor that could allow a fire from the story below to rise to the next level above or enter the attic. All openings in attic floors, house walls where pipes pass through need sealing with drywall or other approved materials and rated caulks. Firestopping is required at each floor, at the attic floor and at all roof penetrations. Firestopping prevents a fire from spreading to different parts of the structure. Firestopping is required at all openings around vents, pipes, ducts, chimneys and fireplaces at ceiling and floor levels, with noncombustible materials.
 

21.NATURAL LIGHT, EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND VENTILATION: All bedrooms shall have an operable window with a sill height no more than 44" above the floor. The minimum clear opening height is 22" and minimum width of 20". The required clear opening must be 4 square feet.

22.FIREPLACE FRONT CLEARANCE: Wood can be no closer to a fireplace opening than 6 inches. Any closer could be a fire code violation. Woodwork or other combustible materials shall not be placed within 6 inches of a fireplace opening. Combustible material within 12 inches of the fireplace opening shall not project more than1/8 inch for each 1 inch distance from such opening.

23.STAIRS, STEPS AND LANDINGS: These are potential trip hazards. The maximum allowable step height is 7 3/4". The minimum allowed depth of the tread is 9". (2006 International Residential Code R311.5.3). Different step heights or widths may be a trip hazards. Risers (heights) and treads  The maximum allowable overhang or nose is 1 1/4".  

24.GARAGES AND GARAGE FLOORS: Water heaters and furnaces in garages shall be 18" off the floor. Flammable vapors and liquids could be ignited by the appliances in the garage.  The area of the floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway.   

25.ELECTRICAL: Any electrical outlets in the bathrooms, kitchen counter level, unfinished basements, garages or on the exterior of the building that can be reached from the ground, must be GFCI protected.
Any electrical outlet located within 6 feet of a sink  must be GFCI protected.

26.ZONE HEATING AND COOLING: A two story building with a single heat and air conditioning system, may have difficulty balancing the heat and cooling. If this is the case or you have a older home make sure proper air registers and air returns are in the appropriate locations on both floors and increase or lessen the airflow manually by closing or opening each register as heat or cooling is needed. 

27.HOUSE AIR SPILLING: Sometimes air is loss at plenums and ducts. All ducts must be sealed with mastic and mesh tape at the furnace and at the register boots. All joints shall be securely fastened and sealed with welds, gaskets, mastic adhesives, mastic-plus-embedded-fabric systems or tapes.

28.IMPROPER OR MISSING SERVICE FLOOR IN FRONT OF FURNACE: This makes it difficult to service the furnace system or change a filter. A working platform, 30" deep with a clear headroom of 30" high, is required along the control side of the furnace. 

29.ENERGY LOSS AT ATTIC STAIRS AND OPENINGS: It is recommended that an insulation batt cover the attic stair as well as rubber or foam weatherstripping around the perimeter of the doors. All attic crawlspace doors should be solid core or rated and have weatherstripping. Unconditioned attic air can enter the conditioned space. Any opening from a conditioned space to a non-conditioned space must be weather-stripped and or sealed  

                                          2006 International Residential Code IRC

 

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In most cases, a home located on well drained soil, no roof, gutter or plumbing leaks and a basement or crawlspace well ventilated should provide first-level protection. Georgia has a high termite infestation rate. Georgia also has a high wood rott classification. A location with constant rain-sun cycles is ideal for causing damage to unprotected wood products. All exterior wood components should be protected with oil, latex or acrylic paint or sealers and stains. The constant wet dry process causes decay.


PARIS PRESSLEY REAL ESTATE INSPECTOR
www.ppinspect.com
Email: info@ppinspect.com
404-755-9556 / 770-252-6700
Metro Atlanta/Newnan South Mtero

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